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Alex Honnold

Updated: Wikipedia source

Alex Honnold

Alex Honnold (born August 17, 1985) is an American rock climber best known for his free solo ascents of big walls. Honnold rose to worldwide fame in June 2017 when he became the first person to free solo a full route on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park (via the 2,900-foot route Freerider at 5.13a, the first-ever big wall free solo ascent at that grade), a climb described in The New York Times as "one of the great athletic feats of any kind, ever." In 2015, he won a Piolet d'Or in alpine climbing with Tommy Caldwell for their completion of the enchainment (known as the Fitz Traverse) of the Cerro Chaltén Group (or Fitzroy Group) in Patagonia over 5 days. Honnold is the author (with David Roberts) of the memoir Alone on the Wall (2015) and the subject of the 2018 biographical documentary Free Solo, which won a BAFTA and an Academy Award.

Infobox

Born
(1985-08-17) August 17, 1985 (age 40)Sacramento, California, U.S.
Education
University of California, Berkeley
Occupation
Rock climber
Spouse
mw- Sanni McCandless (m. 2020)
Children
2
Type of climber
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Highest grade
mw- Redpoint: 5.14d (9a) Bouldering: V12 (8A )
Known for
Free solo climbs of big wall routes The first person to free solo a full route (from base to summit) on El Capitan Speed record holder on The Nose of El Capitan

Tables

· Selected climbs › Big wall climbing
2007
2007
Year
2007
Route
Freerider
Location
Yosemite
Style
Free ascent
Height
3,000 ft / 37 pitches
Time
One day
Difficulty
VI 5.13a
Notes
One day free ascent with Brian Kimball
2007
2007
Year
2007
Route
Astroman and The Rostrum
Location
Yosemite
Style
Free solo
Height
10 + 8 pitches
Time
One Day
Difficulty
5.11c, 10 pitches
Notes
First-ever repeat of Peter Croft's 1987 'free solo in one day'
2007
2007
Year
2007
Route
Salathé Wall
Location
Yosemite
Style
Free ascent
Height
3,000 ft / ~35 pitches
Difficulty
VI 5.13b/c
Notes
Eleventh free ascent
2008
2008
Year
2008
Route
Bushido and Hong Kong Phooey
Location
Utah
Style
Traditional
Difficulty
5.13+, 5.13b–5.14
Notes
Climbed two challenging crack routes in Utah.
2008
2008
Year
2008
Route
Moonlight Buttress
Location
Zion, Utah
Style
Free solo
Height
1,200 ft / 9 pitches
Time
83 minutes
Difficulty
V 5.12d, 1200 ft
Notes
First free solo
2008
2008
Year
2008
Route
Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome
Location
Yosemite
Style
Free solo
Height
2,000 ft / 23 pitches
Time
2 hours 50 minutes
Difficulty
5.12a
Notes
First free solo
2012
2012
Year
2012
Route
The Nose
Location
Yosemite, El Capitan
Style
Speed climb
Height
2,900 ft / ~31 pitches
Time
2:23:46
Difficulty
VI 5.8 A2
Notes
Former speed record of 2:23:46 with Hans Florine
2012
2012
Year
2012
Route
The Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome
Location
Yosemite
Style
Speed solo
Height
2,000 ft / 23 pitches
Time
1:22
Difficulty
5.12a
2012
2012
Year
2012
Route
Fiesta de los Biceps
Location
Riglos, Aragon, Spain
Style
Free solo (fash)
Height
242 m (800 ft) / 7 pitches
Difficulty
7a
2012
2012
Year
2012
Route
Yosemite Triple Crown
Location
Yosemite
Style
Link-up
Time
18:50
Difficulty
Various
Notes
Solo link-up of three iconic Yosemite routes. (Mt. Watkins, El Capitan, and Half Dome)
2014
2014
Year
2014
Route
Pre Muir
Location
Yosemite, El Capitan
Style
Free climb
Difficulty
V 5.13c/d
Notes
Climbed with Josh McCoy.
2014
2014
Year
2014
Route
Muir Wall – Shaft Variation
Location
Yosemite, El Capitan
Style
Speed climb
Time
12 Hours
Difficulty
V 5.13b/c
Notes
Speed record ascent.
2014
2014
Year
2014
Route
El Corazon
Location
Yosemite, El Capitan
Style
Speed climb
Time
15:30
Difficulty
V 5.13b
Notes
Speed record ascent.
2014
2014
Year
2014
Route
El Sendero Luminoso
Location
El Potrero Chico, Mexico
Style
Free solo
Height
1,750 ft, 15 pitch
Time
Just over 3 hours
Difficulty
V 5.12d
Notes
First free solo ascent
2014
2014
Year
2014
Route
University Wall
Location
Squamish, British Columbia, Canada
Style
Free solo
Height
8 pitches
Time
2 hours (car-to-car)
Difficulty
5.12a C2
Notes
First free solo
2016
2016
Year
2016
Route
Complete Scream
Location
Northern Ireland, United Kingdom
Style
Free Solo
Height
200 ft
Difficulty
E8 6b
Notes
Notable climb in Northern Ireland.
2017
2017
Year
2017
Route
Freerider
Location
Yosemite, El Capitan
Style
Free solo
Height
3,000 ft / 37 pitches
Time
3 hours 56 minutes
Difficulty
5.13a VI
Notes
First-ever big wall free solo at the grade of 5.13a (7c+).
2018
2018
Year
2018
Route
The Nose
Location
Yosemite, El Capitan
Style
Speed Climb
Height
2,900 ft / ~31 pitches
Time
1:58:07
Difficulty
VI 5.8 A2
Notes
Speed record with Tommy Caldwell
2019
2019
Year
2019
Route
El Niño
Location
Yosemite, El Capitan
Style
Free climb
Height
3,000 ft
Difficulty
VI 5.13c
Notes
Second entirely free ascent via the Pineapple Express variation with Brad Gobright.
2019
2019
Year
2019
Route
Passage to Freedom
Location
Yosemite, El Capitan
Style
Free climb
Height
3,000 ft
Difficulty
VI 5.13d
Notes
First free ascent with Tommy Caldwell
2022
2022
Year
2022
Route
Ingmikortilaq
Location
sea cliff in eastern Greenland
Style
Free ascent
Height
3,750-foot
Notes
First ascent of a sea cliff, climbed with Hazel Findlay.
2023
2023
Year
2023
Route
The Heart Route
Location
Yosemite, El Capitan
Style
Free climb
Height
3,000ft
Difficulty
VI 5.13b, V10
Notes
Third free ascent
2024
2024
Year
2024
Route
Triple Rainbow
Location
Rainbow Wall, USA
Style
Free climb
Height
Dreefee (11 pitch 5.13d), Desert Solitare (11 pitch 5.13b) and Rainbow Country (13 pitch 5.12d).
Difficulty
5.13d
Notes
First free ascent of a link up of Dreefee, Desert Solitare and Rainbow Country
Year
Route
Location
Style
Height
Time
Difficulty
Notes
2007
Freerider
Yosemite
Free ascent
3,000 ft / 37 pitches
One day
VI 5.13a
One day free ascent with Brian Kimball
2007
Astroman and The Rostrum
Yosemite
Free solo
10 + 8 pitches
One Day
pitches
First-ever repeat of Peter Croft's 1987 'free solo in one day'
2007
Salathé Wall
Yosemite
Free ascent
3,000 ft / ~35 pitches
VI 5.13b/c
Eleventh free ascent
2008
Bushido and Hong Kong Phooey
Utah
Traditional
5.13+, 5.13b–5.14
Climbed two challenging crack routes in Utah.
2008
Moonlight Buttress
Zion, Utah
Free solo
1,200 ft / 9 pitches
83 minutes
V 5.12d, 1200 ft
First free solo
2008
Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome
Yosemite
Free solo
2,000 ft / 23 pitches
2 hours 50 minutes
5.12a
First free solo
2012
The Nose
Yosemite, El Capitan
Speed climb
2,900 ft / ~31 pitches
2:23:46
VI 5.8 A2
Former speed record of 2:23:46 with Hans Florine
2012
The Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome
Yosemite
Speed solo
2,000 ft / 23 pitches
1:22
5.12a
2012
Fiesta de los Biceps
Riglos, Aragon, Spain
Free solo (fash)
242 m (800 ft) / 7 pitches
7a
2012
Yosemite Triple Crown
Yosemite
Link-up
18:50
Various
Solo link-up of three iconic Yosemite routes. (Mt. Watkins, El Capitan, and Half Dome)
2014
Pre Muir
Yosemite, El Capitan
Free climb
V 5.13c/d
Climbed with Josh McCoy.
2014
Muir Wall – Shaft Variation
Yosemite, El Capitan
Speed climb
12 Hours
V 5.13b/c
Speed record ascent.
2014
El Corazon
Yosemite, El Capitan
Speed climb
15:30
V 5.13b
Speed record ascent.
2014
El Sendero Luminoso
El Potrero Chico, Mexico
Free solo
1,750 ft, 15 pitch
Just over 3 hours
V 5.12d
First free solo ascent
2014
University Wall
Squamish, British Columbia, Canada
Free solo
8 pitches
2 hours (car-to-car)
a C2
First free solo
2016
Complete Scream
Northern Ireland, United Kingdom
Free Solo
200 ft
E8 6b
Notable climb in Northern Ireland.
2017
Freerider
Yosemite, El Capitan
Free solo
3,000 ft / 37 pitches
3 hours 56 minutes
a VI
First-ever big wall free solo at the grade of 5.13a (7c+).
2018
The Nose
Yosemite, El Capitan
Speed Climb
2,900 ft / ~31 pitches
1:58:07
VI 5.8 A2
Speed record with Tommy Caldwell
2019
El Niño
Yosemite, El Capitan
Free climb
3,000 ft
VI 5.13c
Second entirely free ascent via the Pineapple Express variation with Brad Gobright.
2019
Passage to Freedom
Yosemite, El Capitan
Free climb
3,000 ft
VI 5.13d
First free ascent with Tommy Caldwell
2022
Ingmikortilaq
sea cliff in eastern Greenland
Free ascent
3,750-foot
First ascent of a sea cliff, climbed with Hazel Findlay.
2023
The Heart Route
Yosemite, El Capitan
Free climb
3,000ft
VI 5.13b, V10
Third free ascent
2024
Triple Rainbow
Rainbow Wall, USA
Free climb
Dreefee (11 pitch 5.13d), Desert Solitare (11 pitch 5.13b) and Rainbow Country (13 pitch 5.12d).
5.13d
First free ascent of a link up of Dreefee, Desert Solitare and Rainbow Country
· Selected climbs › Bouldering
2010
2010
Year
2010
Route
Ambrosia
Location
Bishop, California
Style
Bouldering
Difficulty
V11 8A
Notes
second ascent
2011
2011
Year
2011
Route
The Mandala
Location
Bishop, California
Style
Bouldering
Difficulty
V12 8A+
2012
2012
Year
2012
Route
Too Big to Flail
Location
Bishop, California
Style
Bouldering
Difficulty
V10 7C+ or 8b (5.13d)
Notes
first ascent
Year
Route
Location
Style
Height
Time
Difficulty
Notes
2010
Ambrosia
Bishop, California
Bouldering
V11 8A
second ascent
2011
The Mandala
Bishop, California
Bouldering
V12 8A+
2012
Too Big to Flail
Bishop, California
Bouldering
V10 7C+ or 8b (5.13d)
first ascent
· Selected climbs › Bouldering
2008
2008
Year
2008
Route
Parthian Shot, New Statesman, Meshuga (solo)
Location
London Wall, on-sight solo; in England.
Style
Free solo
Difficulty
Varies
Notes
Multiple solos and flashes
2010
2010
Year
2010
Route
The Green Mile
Location
Jailhouse crag, San Francisco
Style
Sport climb
Difficulty
5.14c(8c+)
2010
2010
Year
2010
Route
Rainbow Arch
Location
Ennedi Desert, Chad
Style
Top-rope
Difficulty
5.12+
Notes
First ascent
2011
2011
Year
2011
Route
Heaven and Cosmic Debris
Location
Yosemite National Park
Style
Free solo
Difficulty
5.12d, 5.13b
2011
2011
Year
2011
Route
The Phoenix
Location
Yosemite National Park
Style
Free solo
Difficulty
5.13a
Notes
The Phoenix was the first-ever consensus 5.13a in history.
2011
2011
Year
2011
Route
Cobra Crack
Location
Squamish, British Columbia
Style
Free climb
Difficulty
5.14b
Notes
ascent is etched in a board between that of Will Stanhope and Pete Whittaker
2019
2019
Year
2019
Route
Arrested Development
Location
Mount Charleston, Nevada
Style
Sport climb
Difficulty
9a 5.14d
Notes
second ascent of sport climbing route after Jonathan Siegrist.
2024
2024
Year
2024
Route
Manphibian
Location
Mount Charleston, Nevada
Style
Sport climb
Difficulty
9a 5.14d
Year
Route
Location
Style
Height
Time
Difficulty
Notes
2008
Parthian Shot, New Statesman, Meshuga (solo)
London Wall, on-sight solo; in England.
Free solo
Varies
Multiple solos and flashes
2010
The Green Mile
Jailhouse crag, San Francisco
Sport climb
5.14c(8c+)
2010
Rainbow Arch
Ennedi Desert, Chad
Top-rope
5.12+
First ascent
2011
Heaven and Cosmic Debris
Yosemite National Park
Free solo
5.12d, 5.13b
2011
The Phoenix
Yosemite National Park
Free solo
5.13a
The Phoenix was the first-ever consensus 5.13a in history.
2011
Cobra Crack
Squamish, British Columbia
Free climb
5.14b
ascent is etched in a board between that of Will Stanhope and Pete Whittaker
2019
Arrested Development
Mount Charleston, Nevada
Sport climb
9a 5.14d
second ascent of sport climbing route after Jonathan Siegrist.
2024
Manphibian
Mount Charleston, Nevada
Sport climb
9a 5.14d
· Selected climbs › Alpine climbing
2009
2009
Year
2009
Route
Unnamed
Location
Low's Gully, Borneo
Style
Attempted free ascent
Difficulty
VI 5.12 A2
Notes
Attempted first free ascent
2014
2014
Year
2014
Route
The Fitz Roy Traverse
Location
Fitz Roy massif, Patagonia
Style
Alpine
Height
5,000 m
Time
5 Days
Difficulty
5.11d C1 65 degrees, 5000m
Notes
Completed over five days with Tommy Caldwell
2016
2016
Year
2016
Route
Torre Traverse
Location
Patagonia
Style
Alpine
Time
Under 21 Hours
Notes
Second traverse (north-to-south) of the Cerro Torre Group. Completed with Colin Haley.
2023
2023
Year
2023
Route
Diablo Traverse
Location
Devils Thumb, Alaska
Style
Alpine
Time
Under 24 Hours
Difficulty
5.10 A2
Notes
Second traverse of the range. Completed with Tommy Caldwell.
Year
Route
Location
Style
Height
Time
Difficulty
Notes
2009
Unnamed
Low's Gully, Borneo
Attempted free ascent
VI 5.12 A2
Attempted first free ascent
2014
The Fitz Roy Traverse
Fitz Roy massif, Patagonia
Alpine
5,000 m
5 Days
d C1 65 degrees, 5000m
Completed over five days with Tommy Caldwell
2016
Torre Traverse
Patagonia
Alpine
Under 21 Hours
Second traverse (north-to-south) of the Cerro Torre Group. Completed with Colin Haley.
2023
Diablo Traverse
Devils Thumb, Alaska
Alpine
Under 24 Hours
5.10 A2
Second traverse of the range. Completed with Tommy Caldwell.

References

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  64. National Geographic Exploration & Adventure Blog
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  67. www.ukclimbing.com
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  71. Facebook
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  77. "Alex Honnold Solos The Complete Scream E8 6b at Fair Head"
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  81. Outside Online
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  85. Dpmclimbing.com
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  102. Climbing
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  103. Gripped Magazine
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